Passover in Kampala

"Next year in Jerusalem." The words at the end ofjoined us. Of the four on our production team, two
the Passover seder always give me chills. How manyhad never experienced a Passover seder before. We
Jews over how many generations have longed tolit candles and prayed we would heal and not harm.
celebrate in the Holy Land. This past year, though, IWe could not find any matzah in all of Kampala so
was faced with a dilemma. I wouldn't be celebratingwe improvised and ate the Indian flatbread called nan
Passover in Jerusalem or even, as usual, at theinstead. On the cover of our makeshift Haggadah
festive table of Nancy and Charlie Behrend inwas "Escape from the Quarry." The word Haggadah
suburban Denver. I would be adrift, working half ameans "the telling" and recounts the story of the
world away in Kampala, Uganda. The possibility ofescape of the Jews from Egypt. In light of what we
Passover without family, friends and a seder loomedwere witnessing the flight from slavery was a
large.powerful tale of freedom and liberation.
Three colleagues and I were heading to Kampala toIn the preface to our Haggadah we were reminded
work on a series of videos about a Boulder, Coloradoto let the ritual inspire us to relieve suffering, work
based non-government organization called BeadforLifeagainst injustice, recommit to our own spiritual
beadforlife.org that is making a big difference in theawakening and leave a trail of goodness as we walk
lives of Ugandans suffering from poverty so extremethrough the world. We reflected on what parts of
that it kills. It is a collaboration of cultures andour character we wished to wash away, and as our
compassion. Women in Uganda, whose lives haveweaknesses became clear we completed the
been crushed by the modern day plagues of civilthought with an emphatic Kayn Yihee Ratzon- "so be
war, HIV/AIDS, hunger and homelessness, makeit." We discussed the nuances of the seder, asked
colorful bead jewelry out of recycled magazinethe four questions and told the story of how God
pages. Women in North America sell them and thesent plagues to the Egyptians which finally forced
money goes back to Uganda for education, healthPharaoh to free the Jews. We prayed mightily to
care and housing. Until two years ago, the only waycast away the plagues of our modern lives:
these women and their families survived was byTeaching of hate and predjudice.
working in a rock quarry, crushing stones for $1 aGreed and avarice.
day. Each day was spent in the never-ending pursuitAbuse of Mother Earth.
of just enough to get families to the next day.Hunger. Especially here in Africa.
Babies were lost to disease or sometimes tossedCorruption of justice and government.
out, children went to sleep hungry, parentsPoverty.
succumbed to AIDS and left children orphaned andBreakdown of families and communities.
alone. Like the night of Passover in biblical times,Oppression of nations and peoples.
death was at everyone's doorstep.Making of war.
We spent the trip in the slums of Kampala.Apathy and hopelessness.
Witnessing the way more than half of the world livesMostly we talked about the incredible resolve we
was life altering. Thousands crowd into the Acholiwere witnessing and how a circle of compassion and
Quarter which is teeming with refugees from aconnection was transforming lives. As we sat
senseless and brutal 19 year civil war up north. Peopletogether we considered what we were thankful for.
live in a red dirt world without electricity, runningWith the Dayenu we proclaimed "enough" and
water, sewage systems and in many cases, hope.promised not to focus on what's lacking in our lives
Children have distended bellies and tattered clothes.but to be grateful for all our blessings. After
Homes are made of sticks and mud that fall apart inwitnessing suffering and redemption in the slums of
the rain. Yet over the course of our stay weKampala it became so apparent that we have
witnessed an incredible welling of spirit andamazing blessings in our country, gifts that people in
generosity. What little there was, was shared. Smilesthe Third World can't even fathom. By remembering
were warm and abundant. Everyone had light in theirthe bitterness of oppression we could savor the
eyes. They sang and danced through their suffering.sweetness of freedom, a freedom we wished upon
Women like Naiga Mary, Rose Namukasa, Achanall the people of the world who are enslaved by
Grace, Millie Grace and Jajja Josephine, who refusedpoverty and chaos. We prayed for peace and
to be defeated by their poverty, were earningopened the door for Elijah and welcomed him. Could
income by making beads and their hard work wasany of the women who toiled in the rock quarry for
blessing entire families and communities.$1 a day be Elijah fulfilling his promise to return as a
In this setting we celebrated Passover. Our hosts, Dr.poor person to see how he would be treated? Could
Charles Steinberg, a noted AIDS doctor, teachingwe reach within ourselves and cast out the curses of
native physicians how to administer antiretroviralour world that afflict hearts and countries like those
drugs and treat the disease which has killed off anin Africa and do our part to grant the troubled
entire generation of Africans, and his wife, Torkincontinent peace? At our table in Kampala we
Wakefield, the co-founder of BeadforLife, steppedconcluded with the words that are said at every
up and put together a Passover seder in theirseder in every part of the world. "This year we
apartment. Their friend, William, a former Catholiccelebrate here, but next year in Jerusalem.
priest, who has spent decades ministering in Africa,